Saturday, January 21, 2006

with the mayor of new orleans blathering on about chocolate on monday, i finally saw 'crash' friday night, dreading whatever racial lessons were going to be unleashed, and i was pleasantly surprised. sure, it totally stressed me out to see the lapd and l.a. but i was surprised how true the movie rang.

not about race. i don't think 'crash' is about race at all. it's too convenient to say it's a race movie. l.a. is too racially diverse to avoid racial tension but race is often a handy metaphor for what l.a. feels like beneath everything. but beyond racial conflict, the movie is really about the basic, crazy isolation of los angeles.

i was born in l.a. but i hate it. it makes me tense. i feel like i'm on some lonely planet whenever i visit. and what i noticed in the film is that every conversation, the basic bridge from one person to another, misfires with possible disaster as a consequence. beneath every conversation, you sense there's something a character really wants to say: about desire, fear, something. there's something he desperately wants to get out. (you see it most with terrance howard's character, especially in his scene with ryan phillipe. you see it in the last scene between nola gaye and brendan frasier and he's saying good night to his wife. there's always something under the surface and the opportunity to voice what it is never presents itself.) but they either don't know how to say it, or they've been so alone in their bubble, they've forgotten about other people.

not because of race, but because l.a. makes you that way.

the women didn't seem to have this much of a problem, though. the female detective, the persian daughter, the tv director's wife, the DA's wife - the women in this film try to pierce the little bubbles that surround them, to varying degrees of success.

when i talk to midwesterners who moved to l.a. for a little bit, then came back hating it, i nod. they felt like they were going insane. no one talked to one another. no one touched each other. there was nowhere to go. it felt like people spoke a secret language only a few others could understand. it was too isolating. and that's what l.a. is. it's a skinner box. you're in your car for hours at a time; then you're in your office park; then you're back in your car; then you're home.

l.a. doesn't have public space; it doesn't have sidewalks full of people. the streets are too large to cross in one traffic light. none of the public transportation goes quite as far as it needs to go. but it has commerce. it's not unnoticed that the most popular places in the city are places like The Promenade or Universal City Walk or The Grove, the old Farmers Market on Fairfax that's been turned into a huge outdoor mall where they manufacture snow for the holidays. it tries to capture the way a neighborhood is supposed to feel but instead it just feels like an amusement park.

think of it - in l.a. people drive miles to find a place to walk around and brush shoulders with other people. how sad is that??

when you live in a city that's just a nasty ball of artifice, distance and commercial calculation how can you not feel crazy and disconnected?

18 comments:

jp 吉平 said...

Ah, LA I've only spent a few weeks of my life there (I didn't understand it). So I can only testify to the LA that exists in the cultural imagination of the Western USA.

All western American cities, (some might argue all American cities) have spent the greater part of the last two centuries aspiring to be like LA. Downtown devleopers in Vancouver and Portland have tried to turn the tides, but they haven't been able to stop the sprawl; at best, they have created alternatives to sprawl. But the sprawl continues. It's easy to look at LA and say it's the perpetrator of the car-culture, but the truth is that it might just be the greatest victim.

Still, when I ask my suburban students to name some famous avenues, they don't come up with the Champs Elysees, Las Ramblas, Broadway, or Pensylvania. They won't in a hundred years come up with the important avenues in Seattle. Invariably, they will say Sunset, Melrose, Rodeo, Hollywood, and Vine. Obviously, there is some kind of love for LA alive and well across the lake from Seattle.

Still, there's a lot of hate for LA too. All kinds, on all fronts. The car culture. The drivers. The cops. The smog. The lalaland superficiality (as opposed to our native latteland superficiality). The theme parks. The suburban isolation.

I haven't seen Crash yet; I had it on good authority that it makes white people think long and hard, but it just reminds us brown people to be angry again.

I want to go to LA to visit J&M. I want to eat tacos. It would be fun to go with Ding-a-ling to eat chicken-n-waffles. Ooh, and I want J&M to take us to the crab place, and all the korean places she writes about.

But my LA desires are all about personal connections; they have nothing to do with LA being the cultural capital of the western imagination.

Its funny how provincial we are, even as college kids. The UW Huskies went to the Rose Bowl three times when I was in college; and three times I passed up the chance to come home with my own LA story. As my friends piled into their caravans, they all shook their heads and said they were only going for the football.

Delia Christina said...

this is what i like about l.a.:

roscoe's chicken n' waffles
the getty (the only real public space we have that's constructed to be public - but you have to call ahead and make reservations!)
downtown is still an unearthed treasure and the farmers market there is SO old-l.a.
east l.a.
silverlake & los feliz (just ignore all the annoying hipsters)
south central
chinatown
koreatown (where else can you sing karaoke and feel like you're in another country?)
griffith park observatory
macarthur park for the filipino festival
the fruit and vegetables taste better there
you can find real japanese food
spanish is everywhere
they have a chicano mayor!
everyone hates the lapd - everyone.

when i have real money again, i want to see seattle. i want to be a part of the latte-culture.

jp 吉平 said...

remember how stressed-out it made me to order espresso in Ann Arbor....

Delia Christina said...

that's when i first suspected that everyone from seattle was a little bit OCD.

jp 吉平 said...

It's not that! It's that we tell them what we want, and they make something else. You ask for a latte, and they give you a mikly disaster. You ask for a cappucino, and they give you a latte. That's like ordering a hamburger and getting a bag of mice.

How do you order a double short in ERC, without crawling across the counter and beating someone? By the way, the music is too loud.

To be fair, there was Zingermanns, who made correct cappuccini.

Delia Christina said...

but then, the smugness of the Zingermanos was unbearable. i know people looove Zingerman's but the Zingerman smugness has got to stop. (and their enabling of the self-infulgent Zingerphile is too annoying.)

what's a proper espresso?

jp 吉平 said...

you know, there is good espresso, and bad espresso, depending on variables such as roasting, griding, water, etc.

I'm not even talking about that.

When I order a latte, I want a LATTE. When I say "double", I want two shots of espresso; if I want a tall cup, I'll say the word "tall." It's not difficult.

Zingermanns was the only place in Ann Arbor that followed directions; including Starbucks, which made up it's own infuriating language.

I had a friend living in DC at the time, when we went to ordered an iced mocha, we had to 1) tell them with words not to steam the milk, and then 2) physically follow them around the counter and stop them from steaming the milk. Once the barista said, but don't you want the steam flavor?

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS STEAM FLAVOR!

It's not about being elitist. It's about getting what you ordered.

I tried for months to get a simple double short latte out of ERC. I'll spell it for you: regular mug, two shots of espresso, steam the milk and top with foam. Double short.

But that was always a disaster, so I stopped ordering espresso in Ann Arbor. Incluidng at Zingermans, which, althought they followed directions, they overpriced and rather smug.

That's why near the end you always saw me with a cup of drip coffee in a mug. In a mug please. Thank you, can I have it in a mug now? Yes, a mug. No, not a paper cup, I'd like a mug. Thank you. Yes, I ordered it for here. In a mug. Just... never mind.

Delia Christina said...

we always thought the espresso thing was a little high maintenance...

jp 吉平 said...

Yes, you did. But if you ordered a martini and got a vodka tonic every time, you'd be pissed off too.

Anonymous said...

Ok, Of course I have to defend my LA, which is not necessarily your LA.But, not right now, because I have to run onto one of these most hated freeways to get to my job. Still, in the middle of the day or night it is quite nice to drive very fast all by myself.
I will say this: contradictions define this place, (which is more than one place, really)and if you are thinking about it in either/or terms, you will hate it.
More later.

jp 吉平 said...

Drink it! Yes, it's a vodka tonic, but we put it in a martini glass. Drink it. Stop being so high maintenence.

jp 吉平 said...

Thanks for coming to Martini's R US, home of the worlds best martini.

One martini? Coming right up.

(I'll just make her a vodka tonic, put it in a martini glass. she won't notice.)

(Yes, yes. I am looking you in the face and hearing you explain to me how to make your drink. However, I'll just make what I know how to make and then later I'll complain with my incompetant co-workers about how 'high maintenence' you are.)

jp 吉平 said...

Aaaaand here's your martini! I made it with extra salt! (wink)

You are so lucky go get what you didn't order. Don't complain! I gave you something similar!

High maintenence. Hmph.

Anonymous said...

Maybe that's just it. LA's not your martini, It's not what you ordered at all. And yet, there it is. I think most people who like LA like the vertigo it inspires if you try to take in the whole thing. Its more like a bunch of small towns. Even "the westside" isn't a monolith: Santa Monica is so not Venice, which is so not Marina Del Rey for example. And none of it is like my westside neighborhood, Mar Vista: taquerias on several corners, a giant Japanese market, a ghettoish Vons, the big blue bus which is always clean and on time, and full of the immigrants and students who live in the apartments that surround nice old houses where white people and older (by older, I mean they've been here longer)chicano and asian families live. We have dive bars cheek by jowl with places like whole foods,
and honestly, I think my fondness for the city comes from the fact that I love my neighborhood so much. That and being contrary.
and anyway, who says the idiots at the grove get to define LA? not me. no. no. no.
see? contrary.

Anonymous said...

and you don't have to call ahead to the getty anymore. ;)

Delia Christina said...

really? you don't have to call anymore?

i've been gone so long the city is estranged from me. my associations with l.a. are wholly personal. i became truly independent away from it and now, whenever i return, i feel as if i've moved past it.

but even though i can't stand being there more than 5 days at a time, i still have some affection for it! really! kind of.

aren't we all conflicted about home?

Delia Christina said...

jp, i totally get it. now.
back then i just thought you were a little bonkers about espresso.

but i get it! now.

if i want a perfect manhattan with makers mark with a twist, by god, i better get a perfect manhattan with makers mark with a twist. not a manhattan with wild turkey and a cherry. and it better be straight up.

jp 吉平 said...

Que milagro, she gets it!

Come visit this summer. We'll have a Superhero's reunion.